IL Casale

Chef Dante de Magistris has turned a former firehouse into a lovely restaurant, a large yet warm (and loud) space of brick walls, exposed beams, and high ceilings, lit by wrought-iron chandeliers and glass lanterns. The food is lovely, too, much of it made from family recipes. It is a snapshot of how tastes have changed. Rustic and simple are the new elegant. Luxury may be best achieved by paring back, showcasing a few flavors and ingredients. Dishes such as pork meatballs in a sauce made from pig’s head and wood-grilled trout stuffed with lemon and orange slices show how modern Nonna’s cooking can taste. --The Boston Globe, July 8, 2009