Flat Iron Tapas Bar & Lounge

The flat-screen TVs, specialty cocktails, and va-va-voom decor made us suspect the food here is only an afterthought. Until we tried cinnamon-chili Chilean sea bass, which explodes with enormous, unexpected flavors. Tender pork belly confit has a similarly electrifying effect. The wizard behind this outstanding food is Thomas Ciszak, a European-trained chef who is adventurous without being over-the-top. The menu is too meat-centric and the hotel setting can feel peculiar. But Ciszak’s shortrib sliders on buttered brioche, tuna tartar with tapioca beads, and cheesecake lollipop tree will keep us coming back. (Sacha Pfeiffer, Globe staff | June 7, 2007)