Suvarnabhumi Kiri

Let the lovers of that stinky, gray, gloppy fish paste called prahok rejoice. Boston has a new Cambodian restaurant, and it’s not afraid to use this odorous but tasty Cambodian foodstuff that all adventurous eaters should try. But those looking for more familiar flavors need not shy away. Suvarnabhumi Kiri also offers an epic selection of sushi and Thai in a pretty space with a reasonable beer, wine, and sake list. On the Cambodian side, don’t miss prahok katee, a spicy ground pork dip eaten with fresh, crisp veggies; any of the wonderfully complex Cambodian soups and stews; or the caramelized beef loc lac. Thai dishes to try include the particularly tangy tom ka kai coconut soup, fiery pork grapow with crispy basil, and yummy fried Siam nuggets. (Denise Taylor | Globe Correspondent, October 4, 2007)