Brasseries are designed to be big, bold, and serve hearty fare throughout the day. Eastern Standard does this, and makes some fine classic fare such as steak frites and veal schnitzel. But it also offers very American dishes like hamburgers, making this a brasserie for us all. (Boston Globe, 8/04/05)
T stop: Kenmore Square
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It's big, it's beautiful, and it's open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It's reasonably priced, its menu encompasses dishes like offal (really pates and terrine rather than anything risky, a la the old Biba) and veal schnitzel to grilled cheese sandwiches and cheeseburgers. Its wine list is interesting, and the bartenders busily concoct cocktail classics from decades ago. The legion of hostesses welcome patrons with unflagging smiles -- and courtesy prevails, down to bringing a glass of water to a customer waiting for companions. (Full review)