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Vlora, a new Mediterranean restaurant with a strong Albanian accent, doesn't candy coat. A dish billed as ''fork-tender grilled octopus'' is just that: a tentacle, whole and reaching for you with a curled tip, surrounded by a few chunks of cucumber and tomato. It's fantastic. Other offerings include ingredients some restaurateurs might be chary of: grilled ostrich steak, barbounia (a.k.a. red mullet, above, a fish booby-trapped with millions of tiny bones). Preparations are fairly healthy and quite simple — if you like the ingredients of a dish, you'll like the dish itself. The food feels like something you might actually eat in the region, rather than a version found only in America, where fish often comes in sticks, heads and bones long lost. (11/29/07 DEVRA FIRST)
Prices: Appetizers $5.95-$11.95.
Entrees: $13.95-$32.95. Desserts $6.25-$6.75. Hours Daily 5-11 p.m. dinner, 11 p.m.-1 a.m. late-night menu.
Noise level: Generally easy to hear, though genre-hopping background music can be overly loud.
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